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Dryer Vent Booster Fan

Dryer Vent Booster FanShould I install a duct booster fan dryer or run a shorter vent leads to the basement for hair better performance?

We have an electric dryer. We just bought a new Samsung dryer energy efficient. With all the elbows, I have almost 100 feet of ductwork in our basement.

An HVAC contractor told me: "We can solve your problem by shortening the dry run and the increase in driving a 4" to "6. The new dryer vent is the next Bush to your unit air conditioning. "

The guy who installed our radon mitigation system told me to install a booster fan, "Ok fans .... I use daily are the same characteristics as those announced, so ... I'll plug one of our fans on the outside of your house for a few weeks. You'll have to disconnect when you run your dryer, but it will have to simulate one of those fans on the end of your current pipeline. I can produce about 75 CFM using 3 "pipe ... about 95 CFM using 4" you have.

My bet is that one using these fans cut the drying time by two thirds, and your DS at the lowest temperature, which helps clothes "life." If it works, you can call these people and tell them they are full of shit. If not, you can tell me the same thing. My bet is that if I win it is still close to radon systems in 2600, we currently have running.

The question for me, I would just use a booster fan .... Ok .... the fans I use every day are the same characteristics as those announced, so ... I will connect one of our fans outside of your house for a few weeks. You'll have to disconnect when you run your dryer, but it will have to simulate one of those fans on the end of your current pipeline. I can produce about 75 CFM using 3 "pipe ... about 95 CFM using 4" you have.

My bet is that one using these fans cut the drying time by two thirds, and your DS at the lowest temperature, which helps clothes "life." If this works, you can call these people and tell them they are full of shit. If not, you can tell me the same thing. My bet is that if I win it is still close to radon systems in 2600, we currently have running.

The question for me is how "open" the driest is allowing me to suck air ... but I do not think it will be a problem if I can achieve what they have designed maximum flow .... that will maximize energy efficiency. The cost is sucking air conditioning of the house, but that's how everything is designed dry. The alternative is hanging your clothes in the yard. "

What should I do?

The shorter term straight is your best bet. Each bend and reduce flow. And 100 'ventilation is linked to be limited by lint. The more you have to remember to plug and unplug the fan each time. Unless you install a toggle switch in the duct.

My dryer was broadcast by the manufacturer of the back wall 8 feet on the ceiling of 20 'and ventilation through the gable. After twenty years he has been so restricted with lint, clothes do not dry.

So I repiped garage through the wall and the outer wall, reducing the race to 6 'with two elbows 45 degrees. This effectively freed the chimney, and reduce drying time by half.

And it will be easier to clean the lint on it now. On the long runs, moisture from condensation. Condensation attract lint. Lint will increase static pressure and reduce the size of the duct over time.

But it's your choice. The fan working on the short term. The shorter one will take a permanent solution.

reduce the increase in run size leads
bends adds 2 feet to a race

Over the pipe the greater the resistance to airflow. Ditto for the elbows. Turn with A / C, but put a shield so that the lint will be directed away from A / C If the pipe for this race goes on, you can get the filter of a dry-wet to Home Depot al.

Posted on August 11, 2010.
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